Tchuf Tchuf

Sitting on the train to Gaya - my first Indian train trip. Sleeper class - it's like our Russian platskart but with 8 places per room and one million things happening. Families with small kids, old saddhus begging, chai-coffee, food and press sellers passing by starting from 6AM, everybody screaming and farting and listening to their own music on mobiles. If you are sensitive to sounds and smells you'd better NOT take Sleepers Class. But for me it's real India - people are kind and true. Oh, right now I'm being attacked by a cockroach and there's a battle in the toilet zone. That's life! Everybody says "Hallou" to me (that's basically the only English word people know...) and stares at my Yellow Hear again and again, one lady - and that starts to be normal - asked if she could take a pic on me later on. Again and again we pass by landscapes that make it REAL for me, with fields and clay houses, with women ALWAYS washing clothes - seems to be their main daily practice, with naked kids and piles of cow shit (this i the normal fuel in rural zones), with monkeys on the temple roofs and men peeing wherever their left foot stops them. Lots of tents and huts, many women on construction sites, there are no tractors, so if you need to transport a pile of bricks from a truck to the place, they use... womens' heads. You know the picture, right? Saree, head covered with a special supporting scarf and there you go - superwoman... The train will be late, it's ALREADY late - 3h at least, we'll see by night time. It's normal... David told me once their train was one and a half day late. Well, this is India :)